Aigrette
Definition: A tall feather, usually from an egret or osprey, used to decorate hats, hairstyle or turbans. Also, a piece of jewelry (such as a headdress, hair clip, hatpin or comb) made in a shape which mimics a decorative feather.
Period: Most popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Etymology: From the French term meaning "egret", which has remained unchanged from Old French (spoken in the 9th-14th centuries). Attested in English from 1630.
Other terms: Plume (as a general term rather than a specific one based on species)
Period: Most popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Etymology: From the French term meaning "egret", which has remained unchanged from Old French (spoken in the 9th-14th centuries). Attested in English from 1630.
Other terms: Plume (as a general term rather than a specific one based on species)
In context:
"A large hat of moss green velvet, shirred on the brim, and forming a double ruffle, which is carried up to the edge of the crown in front; trimmed with shaded green-and-pink plumes, mounted with an aigrette of heron's plumage."
- The Millinery Trade Review, vol 14, no. 9 (September, 1899), pg 18. New York, USA. |
From a section describing certain hats found in hat shops across New York.
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"Hatters such as Léon and others affect the Spanish style. They show models with brims of medium widths rolled up in front and flat at the back. The decoration is a little more fanciful than usual for undress and travelling hats, consisting of double wings set symmetrically, of large birds secured to the front of the crown with outstretched wings, of curled cock's feathers mixed with ribbon, or else of rosettes—two or three colors put together, such as cream, scarlet, and brown or bronze—or of fan-plaitings of wider ribbon sewn edge on. Similar shapes are also reproduced in velvet. Flat-brimmed hats of medium size can be seen trimmed with a band of velvet round the crown, and a small bow on the edge of the brim in front, to which is secured a sort of little aigrette in curly cock's feathers. Sometimes another aigrette is put on at the back. The effect is decidedly more novel than graceful. Smart hats of black lace are decorated in the same way with an aigrette and rosette of apricot or marigold-yellow velvet."
- The Millinery Trade Review, vol 14, no. 12 (December, 1899), pg 16. New York, USA. |
Examples:
Aigrette, 1900-25 US or Europe, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
This plume appears to have been dyed. |
Aigrette (jewelry), ca 1810 France (altered ca 1820-35), the Victoria & Albert Museum
From the museum: "Aigrette, brilliant-cut diamonds, turquoises, an emerald and other coloured stones. Some added subsequently (probably between 1820 and 1835) to increase the polychromatic effect of the piece." |
Woman's turban by Paul Poiret, 1911 Paris, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art
From the museum: "Silk and metallic-thread plain weave, silk plain weave, turquoise cabochon, and egret feathers" |